Jack McDade

Day Six – Dingle to Doolin

Posted on 04. Apr, 2009 by Jack in Ireland

We knew it had to happen at some point. No one can go to Ireland without it happening. I mean we hoped really hard, and it seemed like we were going to beat the odds but…

We woke up and it was raining. Sort of. It had BEEN raining. And the fog was heavy. Really heavy. So we took our time chatting with our host, eating our traditional Irish breakfasts and packing up.

Being ahead of whatever you might call our “schedule” (which really just was Bunratty Castle on Saturday night and the Cliffs of Moher sometime before we leave), we took our host’s recommendation and made the complete circuit on the Dingle Peninsula, out on what’s called the Slea Head Drive.

The point of the peninsula was breathtaking, and we could only see about 30 meters out, if that. Unfortunately the fog was so heavy that pictures didn’t come out well at all (not for a lack of trying, as well as no small of Photoshop work in my future to try some more) and we were pretty bummed. In fact, from what i could see, the coastline was even more impressive than both the Ring of Beara and the Ring of Kerry. But i couldn’t tell for sure.

After we finished our circuit and were tempted to try it again after the fog lifted a little (we started loop 2 only to see it was really about the same once you got down into it), we decided to head towards Limerick.

Plans changed right before a big roundabout when we decided to, what the heck, shoot north towards Doolin instead. So we took a ferry and bypassed a long, long route around a very large bay. We made it to Doolin (with a few fun “shortcuts” from Mrs. Garmin) by around 5:15 or so. And this is where it seemed the day was a bust.

We looked all over for the B&B we researched to stay at… couldn’t find it. Finally I stopped at the Doolin Hotel hoping for directions. Apparently, just 50 meters up the road. Definitely wasn’t the case. So back to the hotel looking more and more like a silly American tourist. So this time he calls. Full up. So we go through our book and find another up the street and stop. Only 1 twin bed available. Places 3 and 4 didn’t answer the door. So back to the hotel again, foolish grin on my face. This time 3 people are helping me and they just hand me their phone. Down the line i go until someone picks up. The Harbour View B&B. And boy are we glad they did.

What a beautiful place! Without a doubt it was built specifically as a B&B. Red carpets, very contemporary styling, a long hallway with tall ceilings and motion sensor lights full of ground floor rooms.  Our room… wow. The room was incredible. Huge arched windows, clean contemporary decor, a very comfy queen bed with black leather headboard and footboard, and a stunning bathroom with sandy colored tile from floor to ceiling. Once again we were glad for our luck, or blessing, as it was truly a sight for sore eyes.

And now for the best part of the day. Dinner and MUSIC. We had yet to hear any music played yet so we were determined to do whatever it took. So O’Conners Pub it was! And what luck we had too.

After a very good meal of Smoked Salmon for me and Baked Salmon for Jen, we sat back for a bit and waited for the musicians to arrive.

While waiting we struck up a conversation with the people at the next table, a couple for Colorado, Jon and Melissa. That’s when the good times started to roll. The jokes started cracking right off the bat and stereotypical obnoxious American verbosity and sarcasm started flying. We compared notes and travel plans, shared some laughs at Rick Steve’s expense (the super-nerdy travel guide from PBS) and then started singing with the band who had arrived. And what great music it was too!

Then an older chap who somehow appeared next us commented on the music, saying it should be played everywhere, all the time. Of course, we agreed. He then asked me to ask the band if he could sing. Sure, why not? So after notifying the band between songs, the fellow, who i assumed with ask the band to strike up a tune, laid down an intro the song by asking if there was anyone from Tipperary, since the song was prejudiced. Of course 2 of the 3 band members were from Tipperary so he began anyway. A Capella, he rocked out an awesome Irish tune (click to play) while sitting next to us on a pub bench. It was such a surreal moment, sitting there in an Irish pub near the sea with locals and tourists alike, a 3 piece Irish band off the to side, and an old sea-crusted man singing the days of his past. He later sang another song that night and then disappeared into the night.

After he was gone, the band started calling out on the pub’s patrons to sing too, as they must have enjoyed the break. At first Jon and I were singing to ourselves by reading off the signs and bumper stickers on the pillars in the place, but eventually he belted out a the tune of his Thursday for all to hear. We couldn’t keep the laughter in as he sang the tales of the Canceled Boat Trip to the Aran Islands, the Drive to the Next Town and the Purchasing of Hand Lotion for His Wife. The laughter with our new friends continued well into the night until the pub closed up.

I doubt we’ll ever forget that night!

Tags: dingle, doolin, Ireland, laughter, music, rain